Many people are nervous to try live plants for the first time because they fear they may not be able to care for them or that their goldfish will eat them. However, there are many varieties of plants that are hardy enough to stand up to even the most inexperienced aquarist. Additionally, while many goldfish will see plants as a delicious snack, not all goldfish will eat aquarium plants. This comes down to some trial and error to find what plants your fish see as their own personal salad bar, and which they could care less about. There are also a few plants that are tried and true goldfish proof.

Substrate and the Planted Tank

Before we take a look at some of the common plants available to goldfish keepers, lets take a minute to talk about substrate, or lack thereof. As you may already know there are several options for substrate in a goldfish tank, it is possible to keep plants in all variations. In a bare bottom tank plants that do not require substrate, such as anubias and java fern, can be tied to rocks or driftwood with clear fishing line or cotton thread (note: please make sure your driftwood does not have any hollow spots). Other plants, such as water sprite, wisteria, pennywort, or anacharis, can be floated at the top of the tank, which creates a nice covering for the fish. Plants that do best planted in substrate, such as amazon swords and crypts, can be planted in glass or terra cotta containers with the substrate of your choice.

In an aquarium with substrate you can choose between sand, gravel, or a nutrient rich substrate. If you choose an inert substrate such as sand or gravel, you may want to consider adding root tabs to the substrate if you choose plants that are heavy root feeders. A nutrient rich substrate, such as Carib Sea Eco Complete or Seachem Flourite, already contain nutrients for plant growth. Many aquarists promote the use of dirt capped by another substrate for optimal plant growth. However, goldfish are not the ideal inhabitant for this type of planted tank, as they have a tendency to root around in the substrate, turning it over, and sometimes digging up plants. With a layer of dirt underneath, this can lead to quite a mess and may be more maintenance than it is worth in the long run.

Carbon Dioxide and Liquid Supplements

Liquid supplements and Co2 are often used by those who keep heavily planted tanks. However, in most planted goldfish aquariums these added supplements are not necessary for healthy plant growth. Most plants recommended in this article are low maintenance, low-moderate light plants, that do not require a “high-tech” setup to be healthy. Goldfish tend to produce enough waste and Co2 for these plants, and in a low light tank the demand for Co2 is less than in a moderate to high light tank. That said, if your plants begin to yellow or die off you may need more lighting, an additional source of nutrients, and/or Co2 in your tank. If you would like help problem solving what supplements might be best for your tank, please check out the planted tank section of the forum for advice.

Lighting

A full discussion on lighting is a bit beyond the scope of the current article. However, here is a very brief overview. There are many different lighting options currently available. Some of the common types of fluorescent bulbs include T12, T8, T5, and T5HO. In the most general terms, these bulbs all differ in terms of their efficiency and the amount of usable light they produce. T12 bulbs are the oldest technology, followed by T8, then T5 and T5HO. Essentially, a T8 bulb produces more light for the same amount of watts as compared to a T12, while a T5 and T5HO will produce more light for the same amount of watts as compared to a T8 bulb. LEDs are the newest technology in aquarium lighting, and while some may be good for growing plants, many of the fixtures currently on the market do not produce the correct lighting for plant growth. So, if you choose to go with an LED fixture, make sure to do your research on it.

When we only had a couple bulb options available the ‘watts per gallon’ (wpg) guideline was used for determining if an aquarium was low, moderate, or high light. As we have more options and higher efficiency bulbs, this general guideline has become a bit outdated, as we now need to consider the efficiency of our particular fixture as compared to the older ones for which these guidelines were originally developed. Although there will be some variation in this depending on who you talk to, low light is generally considered less than 2 wpg, moderate is 2-3 wpg, and high is anything above 3 wpg. The wpg guideline is still widely used and can be useful in guiding our decisions regarding lighting. However, it is recommended that you carefully consider all aspects of lighting before deciding on a fixture. If you would like assistance determining what fixture is best for your aquarium please visit the Tanks and Equipment section of the forum.

Disinfection

When you first get your plants please make sure to sterilize them before adding them to your aquarium, as plants can carry unwanted pests such as snails and harbor bacteria or parasites that could make your fish sick. A solution of plain household bleach or potassium permanganate are popular sterilizing methods. For bleach, mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 19 parts water in a bucket. Allow the plants to soak in this for 2-3 minutes, then rinse them with tap water. After rinsing, place them in a bucket of water and add dechlorinator, such as Seachem Prime, this will remove any left over bleach residue.

Potassium permangante (PP) can be often be found in the water softener section of your hardware store or can be bought online. It is considered somewhat more gentle on plants than bleach and may be a good choice for more delicate plants. A concentration of 4 ppm (4 mg per liter of water) has been found effective for disinfection of plants. If you do not have a way to measure the PP, you can just add enough for the water to turn purple. Allow plants to sit in the solution for 10-20 minutes, then add a dechlorinator to the water to neutralize it and rinse plants with tap water. (note: always wear protective gloves when handling bleach or PP)

Disinfecting methods will not kill everything. For example, parasites in the cyst stage will not be harmed by bleach or PP. For further assurance that your new plants are safe you can quarantine them in a separate tank for 2-3 weeks, using old water from your aquarium to replace the water in the QT regularly.

General Maintenance and Care

All live plants require some degree of care and maintenance, some require more or less than others. When you first put your plants in the aquarium, some may ‘melt’ and die off as they adjust to the new environment. Be patient, most will grow back eventually. As a part of general care, trim off any dead, dying, or old leaves that you see. Rotting plant material can be a source of ammonia in your tank if not removed regularly. Some types of plants may need to be trimmed occasionally and new growth (‘baby plants’) can be removed from the mother plant and planted nearby.

Plants

This section will provide you with a brief overview of some of the more popular plants for goldfish aquariums. Just because a plant is not on this list does not mean it should not be used in a goldfish tank. There are a vast number of aquatic species available.

Points from the suit. More common in the country: white angelfish, diamonds immortal, black fairy (ink Yan’er), Watkins Ink Yan’er, fairy gray, black and white fairy, panda gods, zebra fairy marble gods, half black fairy, Yuanyang gods, and the gods of tri-color, red-headed fairy gold head fairy, red-eye fairy glass gods, Egyptian gods and so on.

On this basis, each of the above types and both have the following characteristics, which in turn evolved out more category:

1. according to the shape of points, each of these categories can be divided into short-tailed, long tail, long tail and three strains; such as albacore XX the gods or short fin XX Yan’er, for example: long (short) fin zebra Yan’er long (short) the fin ink Yan’er.

2. according to the body size, each of the above categories can be divided into the “Fish” and “Big Fish” into the fish body length called angelfish less than 15 cm, 15 cm above called “Big Fish” , for example: the giant panda gods, large marble Yan’er.

3. The 3 press transparency min, each of these categories can be divided into glass XX Yan’er, for example: glass red-eye fairy, glass gold head Yan’er etc..

4. according to eye points, each of these categories can be divided into the red-eye the XX gods, or red-eye XX Yan’er, example: Red-Eye Diamond Yan’er, red-eye marble Yan’er etc..

5. according to the head whether red or gold points, each of these categories can be divided into: red head the XX Yan’er (fairy) or gold head XX the gods (Yan’er), for example: red-head the Panda Yan’er (tri-color fairy), red-head glass Yan’er.

6. according to the head, the eyes are red points, each of these categories can also be divided into a red-headed, red-eye-XX the Yan or red head, red-eye XX fairy example: the red-headed, red-eye diamond Yan’er, red-headed, red-eye panda gods, etc..

Whether the light, whether one of them is not illuminated, or not in accordance with the time you set to turn on or off perhaps happened blackout Oh.

Normal filter operation.

Whether the fish is not normal, like swimming or body should pay attention to whether the infection diseases.

Whether there saw the fish died in the tank, if it should immediately remove.

The case of software, or software, furnishings have collapsed.

The water temperature is normal.

The fish tank water level is too high or too low, the sudden temperature change is easy to make less normal water level.

If you are a small cylinder feeding to pump oxygen is supplied, to check for normal operation.

Behavioral symptoms also present themselves in aging bettas. Lethargy is probably the most noticeable. Young, healthy bettas should be quite active, exploring their tanks and wiggling for their humans. Older bettas often lay in the plants or on the bottom of the tank most of the day. Again, this should be a gradual slow in activity levels. A betta that suddenly becomes lethargic may have an illness. Older bettas may not show the enthusiasm for food like they used to. They may show less interest in their humans or stop their “wiggle dances” entirely. Their tenacity for flaring may lessen over time as well. A betta that used to put on a show for other males or his own reflection may not display with the gusto he once did. Both males and females may become much less aggressive as they get well past their breeding years.

Because older fish may be less able to fight off disease and more prone to illness then younger ones, it is important to be vigilant and take the appropriate measures to keep them healthy. Being consistent with water changes and providing a nutritious diet will help prolong your betta’s life.

2. The stocking density is too large.

3. The sudden change in weather, the air pressure is too low.

4. The plankton excessive and fish compete for oxygen with each other.

5. Water temperature sudden changes in temperature up to 5 degrees Celsius, the fish was a sudden can not stand the cold stimulus onset. Change the water, clear cylinder, fish, produce, trauma.

6. Food ration from time to time, qualitative, quantitative, positioning, resulting in malnutrition.

7. The over-saturation of oxygen in the water, tap water and immediately put the fish in the hot sun directly after irradiation, and water to produce bubbles.

8. Pesticide poisoning, flowerpot spraying, pest control, mosquito control, the flies drugs did not remove the fish tank, or not stamped, pesticides fall into the fish tank.

9. The lack of medication knowledge in fish disease during treatment with inappropriate medication.

10. Clean the filter cotton, rinse with water, and must not use detergent or soap immersion.

2. The filter arrangement. Some friends beginning fish will only buy an air pump. That the water of oxygen slap cheer, the water muddy water changes. Buying a filter indifferent. This idea is very dangerous. Articles of equipment fed by colorful, we talked about the significance of the filtering device is now biochemical filter. Are no longer simply to remove the impurities in the water. But to establish a good micro-organisms to eliminate harmful substances in water circulation system to improve the hydrological environment. The system is not prepared. In my experience, the filter channel gap should be bigger that little bit longer. First coarse filter cotton filter out impurities, and then through biochemical filter cotton, bio balls or ceramic ring nitrifying bacteria attached to the base of the filter, let them attached nitrifying bacteria play a role. And then filtered through activated carbon to remove chlorine, cadmium and other harmful elements. Finally, after a cotton filter filter back into the aquarium. This filtering aspect is the experience I fish. I generally do not have the finished filter in order to save money, but to build their own filtration devices. It will be much cheaper.

3. The speed of the water is higher. This is according to the varieties of fish. You keep the text of water you can not flood into the thick of them and even fixed water fish produced? Here is can withstand water, try to engage in large circulating water point. To simulate the natural flow conditions.

4. Lazy people can not fish. The fish people must develop the habit of daily monitoring check water quality and fish living conditions. This work is very boring. But you have to do this. Carefully check the water pH, nitrite content of hydrological indicators. Observe the fish’s body, with or without abnormal. The form of fish, and whether the action is wrong. Found at an early stage whether the fish disease and prevent infection. People are defined as several of my friends said to buy fish only home every day in front of the aquarium and it would sit for 1,2 hours without blinking an eye staring at the fish look into the situation. I did not so exaggerated it. But every day observation, and it is best to do some observation diary is necessary.

5. The other part of the water every three to seven days. While old water is key to keep a good fish, it is also essential to stimulating effect on the metabolism of fresh water fish and aquatic plants.

Bait control and disinfection. Friends fed natural live bait is extremely important. Some time ago a lot of friends Mail to me and asked why I say can not be used to feed silk worms colorful, he also did not find nothing wrong with. On this point, I would like to invite everyone to take a look at the origin of natural silk worms. In rural or factory next to the bilges, water depth of 3-5cm below the surface of the mud is natural silk worms settlements. Everyone should know this place pesticides or industrial pollution is very serious. Especially the silk worms the metal cadmium immune and they are absorbed in their body deposition. Something you say fish have no good? Of course, after a small amount of good disinfection and rinsing feeding nor not. But the work of disinfection and rinsing must have done a good job.

If you have a freshwater aquarium, you need to do certain activities. These actions are so important they are considered the 3 Golden Rules of keeping freshwater aquariums!

What is a Golden Rule? Bing.com defines it as a basic rule that must be followed. Here are the 3 Golden Rules you must follow to keep a successful freshwater aquarium.

Golden Rule #1 – Water Replacement

Depending on whom you talk to or what book you read, you will get different opinions on when and how much water you should replace. But no matter how you cut it, you do need to replace some of the water in your freshwater aquarium.

I have kept a 75-gallon freshwater aquarium for many years, what I have done over these years is replace 10% of the water volume every week. Replacing 10% of the water every week has help make me successful at keeping my aquarium.

Golden Rule #1 is to replace 10% of the water in your aquarium every week.

Golden Rule #2 – Clean The Substrate

Placing your fish in an aquarium reduces the environment your fish are in to a very small space compared to their natural environment. In their natural environment, Mother Nature takes care of any waste generated.

When you bought your aquarium, you promoted yourself to the role of Mother Nature. This means you will have to remove the debris, such as dead plants, excess food and fish “poop”.

When you replace 10% of the water every week, you should also vacuum the substrate to remove the debris. By doing this you will prevent the build up of nitrates and help keep the water clear.

Golden Rule #2 is to vacuum the substrate when you do a water replacement.

Golden Rule #3 – Do Not Over Feed Your Fish

One of the biggest mistakes a budding Aquarist makes is to over feed your fish. Over feeding your fish results in high nitrates. Though your freshwater fish can tolerate high levels of nitrates, to many nitrates can stress your fish.

I tried all the recommendations from the pundits who claim to be experts on keeping aquariums, what I found that works is only feed your fish what they can eat in 2 minutes, once a day.

Golden Rule #3 is to only feed your fish what they can eat in two minutes, once a day.

Conclusion

There are more actions you should take, but if you follow these three rules, weekly water replacement, cleaning the substrate and not overfeeding your fish, you will be successful at keeping your freshwater fish happy and healthy.

When you obtain a freshwater aquarium for your home or office, you are going to need some lighting. Two of the choices you have are incandescent and florescent. So which of the two should you choose?

Why Is Lighting Necessary For Freshwater Aquariums

One of the main items in your aquarium that needs lighting are the plants you have. They will need lighting just like any other plant you grow.

Even if you do not have plants you will still need the lighting for your fish. Turning the lights on for at least 12-hours a day will simulate the rising and setting of the sun found in your fishes natural environment. Without this light your fish could become stressed, have less energy and could become sick.

Two of your choices are incandescent and fluorescent. Here are the differences between the two, and my recommendation for which one to buy.

Incandescent Lighting

This lighting is the type you see in your home and usually comes with most small aquariums, ten-gallons or less. These are the cheapest lighting you can buy for your aquarium, but the cost is quickly overtaken by the cost to run them.

These are not very effective; though they are inexpensive, they will produce more heat and consume more power.

The biggest draw back is that they have a limited light spectrum. The Kelvin (K) rating, a measure of the color spectrum, is about 2700 K. The proper Kelvin rating you need for a freshwater aquarium is 5500 – 7500 K. An incandescent light does not give the proper light spectrum for you aquarium.

The other thing I do not like about this type of lighting is they do not look professional. They will make your aquarium look cheap.

Fluorescent Lighting

Most Aquarist will use fluorescent lights to light up their aquarium. These lights will help your plants grow and also keep your fish happy. Fluorescent lights will not heat up the water in your aquarium like incandescent lights do.

Placing the lights on your cover or inserting it in your canopy will make you aquarium look more professional, not cheap like incandescent lighting.

They also come in the proper Kelvin range that you will need for your aquarium, 5500 to 7500 K.

Conclusion

Besides adding heat to your aquarium, incandescent lighting does not give the correct Kelvin rating for your aquarium. Fluorescent lighting provides the correct Kelvin rating for your fish and plants and makes you aquarium look more professional.

The correct method of pruning of the stems of aquatic plants is a whole grain to trim the plants uprooted, specimens from the first half of the appropriate length from 1 to 1.5 cm of the internode below the cut, give up under the root of aging part, so that plants can metabolism, the plants in good condition and will soon be able to grow roots. Stem plants, the largest root function only in the fixed grip, of course, there are still a part to absorb nutrients, but because the plants whole grain grown in water use stems and leaves directly from the water to obtain nutrients, so do not worry for the half of the president has no root is not good. Trim down the plants is not necessarily back into place, and sometimes can be used to trim the opportunity to change seats, make plants cylinder change freshness.

Did not stem the class plants pruning

Stem plants outside the plants trimmed as long as the removal of out to the aging yellow leaves. The time of removal should be even petioles removal of clean, if for some growth too vigorous plants to root pruning of action. Directly into the plants roots near the sand will root with scissors cut a part of, this can slow down the growth of aquatic plants, affect the plants grow three factors – light, nutrients and water.

When you select your fish at your local pet fish store, you need to go directly home to get your fish to their new home. This is because you do not want to have your fish overheat if the weather is hot or become cold if you are buying your fish in the dead of winter.

Most fish stores will put your new fish in a plastic bag, a puff of oxygen and secure it with a rubber band.

What to Prevent

When you add your fish you want to accomplish two goals:

• You do not want to shock your fish
• You do not want to contaminate your aquarium with water from other aquariums

Adding New Fish To A New Tank

How To Prevent Shocking Your Fish

Any sudden changes in water temperature, even by as little as one degree, can shock your fish leading to disease. So to prevent this, float the plastic bag that has your fish in it in you aquarium for up to 20 minutes.

This will allow the temperature in the plastic bag to equalize with the temperature in your aquarium.

Prevent Contaminating Your Tank

Freshwater aquariums have their own eco-system. When you set up your aquarium and even after your aquarium is running, you need to wash everything you put in it with warm water to prevent contaminating you aquarium.

Preventing contamination of your aquarium includes stopping cross-contamination between your aquarium and other aquariums. So you do not just want to empty your new fish and the pet store aquarium water in your aquarium.

To prevent this, once the temperatures are equalized, use a small fish net to remove your fish from the plastic bag and gently place your fish in your aquarium.

Adding Fish To An Established Tank

Once you have your aquarium up and running, you should have a quarantine or medical tank. This tank should have the same water and be at the same temperature that is in your display aquarium.

Do the same with your new fish that you did with the display tank, equalize temperature by floating the plastic bag your new fish is in and then using a small net put your new fish in the quarantine tank.

Locate the quarantine tank next to your display tank to allow your new fish and your established fish get use to each other. After about a week you can place your new fish in your display tank.